Shoe Umbrella Holder
Recommended Strobist equipment?
Looking to add few bits to my collection and would appreciate a particular input from Strobists.
1. Umbrellas - I have EX580II what is the best size umbrella for that
2. Tripod vs dedicated giraffe light stand
3. Cold shoe umbrella holder recommendations
Budget is a bit on the tight side so DIY are more than welcome. I do mostly portraits but some product, model work work for friends is possible in the future.
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the comment screwdriver
I have indeed RF-602 ( and yes they are great)
and i need a umbrella holder combined with either tripod screw as the RF-602 have that screw on the bottom or clamp ( i keep your suggestion in mind).
Next few days will try few umbrellas to see which fits with my needs.
Still looking for a portable but sturdy enough light stand 
1. A few notes about umbrellas.
Reflective umbrellas are more efficient and don't spill light, often you want to stop light from falling on a background. Shoot through umbrellas scatter light in all directions, not only is this wasteful it can pick up colour casts from walls or ceilings. When using your flash outside trying to overcome sunlight you want every photon you can muster, in short don't get shoot through umbrellas.
Any light modifier actually modifies the shadows cast by the light not the light itself, the highlights are always unmodified.
The size of the light source (umbrella, soft-box etc.) relative to the subjects size determines how hard or soft the shadows will be. For head shots a 36" umbrella is fine, but for soft shadows with a full length portrait 6Ft umbrellas are better.
2. The only thing I use a tripod for in my studio is for somewhere safe to store my camera I always hand hold during a shoot. An important thing to note is that the flash to subject distance alters the exposure, the camera to subject distance doesn't, you can shoot from 3Ft away or 30Ft away the exposure will still be correct.
3. The screw clamp type of cold shoe are best 100% safe. This is the one I use a lot.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Clamp-Style-Flash-Cold-Shoe-Stroboframe-Strobist-/150499594781?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item230a79921d
Reliable UK supplier (usual disclaimer of many transactions)
See the rest of His equipment here
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/cotswoldphoto/m.html
All fully guaranteed, speedy dispatch and 1st Class post on everything.
General Strobist notes from experience
Except for 'fill in' flash forget TTL, it's expensive and when you come to multi flashes gets very confusing (at least it does for me LOL) manual flash is easier to understand and set-up and loads cheaper in flashguns. Manual flash also enables you to get ANY effect you want.
Get yourself a flash meter any of the Sekonic are good, they do cost around £130 for the cheapest (all you need for studio work), but they give you a spot on aperture setting every time with flash or ambient. Much faster to use than 'chimping' or using your cameras Histogram. They really come into their own when balancing multi flashes or when blending ambient into a flash image. Use them to measure the light falling onto the subject and they give you the correct exposure settings, no guessing, no suck it and see, just spot on to 1/10th of a stop.
Use radio syncs they free you up when taking shots you can go anywhere, any angle, I've found the RF-602 is 100% reliable, very much a 'proven' product. Something else that Manual Mode saves you a fortune on.
Chris
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Callaway Warbird Xtreme™ 7734055
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